I am a Muslim woman who wears a hijab.
I can't swim at all.
Neither can I dive.
So I may never experience the thrill and the joy that surfers like this man would experience riding a huge wave.
But the strangest thing is that I feel as if I am standing like this man, in the barrel of this huge gigantic wave. It is an awesome feeling.
Incredible in fact, as if I'm inside and this beautiful wave is all around protecting and taking care of me.
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